人類的社會應該是要互助, 截長補短的, 所以碰上不懂的領域, 在找的到支援的情況下, 我會選擇請教前輩, 也不想事半功倍的花時間在陌生領域上, 外加...我很懶, 不過由於 (某些原因), 所以我動起來了, 也因為這樣, 雖然花了不少時間, 也收穫許多......
引用: Annis shawl by Susanna IC / Knitty
(這份是免費的織圖, 但是實在不清楚他的圖文散佈的原則是啥, 我只動文字的部份, 圖片就省略了)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (完成尺寸)
Width (寬度): 16 inches (40.64cm) -- 依照最下方的圖示, 這個尺寸只有計算蕾絲花樣的部份
Length (長度): 56 inches (142.24cm)
Note: Measurements taken after blocking. (注意: 尺寸的取得是在固定之後)
MATERIALS (材料)
Yarns (線材)
(略)
Recommended needle size (建議針號)
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 US #8/5mm circular needle, 32 inches or longer
輪針, 美規, #8 / 5mm, 32 吋 (81.28cm) 或更長
1 US #10/6mm circular needle, 32 inches or longer (used for casting on only)
輪針, 美規, #10 / 6mm, 32 吋 (81.28cm) 或更長 (只用於起針)
GAUGE (標準尺規)
15 sts/ 22rows = 4" in stockinette st using smaller needle, AFTER BLOCKING
15 針 / 22 列 = 用較小的針號織 4 吋, 取固定後的尺寸
PATTERN NOTES
依照織圖織
* NUPP (有人叫他泡泡針, 有人叫他球針)
Each nupp is formed over 2 rows.
On RS row: Into same st, [k1, yo] 3 times, k1. 1 st increased to 7 sts.
On WS row: P 7 sts together. 7 sts decreased to 1 st.
作法: http://www.knittingdaily.com/blogs/daily/archive/2008/11/10/lace-knitting-video-tip-from-nancy-bush.aspx
* S2KP (3 針併一針, 圖示: /|\ 長這樣的那種)
Slip next 2 sts together, knitwise, as if to work a k2tog. Knit next st, then pass both slipped sts together over st just knit. This forms a centered double decrease.
在 ravelry 的作品內, 有人在下方將圖以文字呈現...(我發現我現在背這個比看圖輕鬆)
Using larger needle, loosely CO 363 sts. Note that larger needle is used only for casting on, to ensure a loose CO edge.
用較大號的針, 鬆散起針 363 針. 注意較大針號的針只用於起針, 確保有較鬆散的邊緣.
Using smaller needle, work Rows 1-18 of Lace Chart; outlined pattern repeat will be worked 29 times in each row.
用較小的輪針開始編織 1-18 列的花樣編織; 每一列紅色輪廓內的圖樣重複 29 次.
(花樣編織 12 * 重複次數 29 = 348 針, 加上前 8 後 7, 總針數 363 針)
When all rows of chart are complete, 243 sts remain.
圖樣內所有列完成, 剩餘 243 針.
到此, 完成的模樣就是最下方的圖示裡外面花樣編的部份.
Short Rows: (不懂該怎麼翻這兩個字, 短列? 反正這一部分就市指的就是那個半圓形的區塊)
Note: In directions that follow, “turning point” refers to point at which previous short row was turned.
Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1, k125. Turn work.
第一列 [正面]: 滑針 1, 下針 125, 換面
Row 2 [WS]: P9. Turn work.
第二列 [反面]: 上針 9, 換面
Row 3 [RS]: K8, ssk, k3. Turn work.
第三列 [正面]: 下針 8, 入 (2 針併 1 針), 下針, 換面
Row 4 [WS]: P11, p2tog, p3. Turn work.
第四列 [反面]: 上針 11, 2 針併 1 針上針, 上針 3, 換面
Row 5 [RS]: K to 1 st before last turning point, ssk, k3. Turn work.
第五列 [正面]: 下針到上一個翻面點的第一針, 入 (2 針併 1 針), 下針 3, 換面
Row 6 [WS]: P to 1 st before last turning point, p2tog, p3. Turn work.
第六列 [反面]: 上針到上一個翻面點的第一針, 2 針併 1 針上針, 上針 3, 換面
Repeat Rows 5-6 27 times more. 185 sts; 1 st remains unworked at each edge.
重複 5-6 的步驟 27 次. 共 185 針, 邊緣的第一針保留不編 (滑針)
Next Row [RS]: K to last 2 sts, k2tog.
接下來的一列 [正面]: 下針到最後兩針, 人 (2 針併 1 針)
BO Row [WS]: [P2tog, sl st from right needle back to left needle] until all sts have been bound off.
收針 [反面]: [2 針併 1 針上針, 自右針滑針一針回左針] 重複以上直到全部都收完.
看懂了, 接下來就是實作, 有什麼錯誤的, 到時候再修正.
引用: Annis shawl by Susanna IC / Knitty
(這份是免費的織圖, 但是實在不清楚他的圖文散佈的原則是啥, 我只動文字的部份, 圖片就省略了)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (完成尺寸)
Width (寬度): 16 inches (40.64cm) -- 依照最下方的圖示, 這個尺寸只有計算蕾絲花樣的部份
Length (長度): 56 inches (142.24cm)
Note: Measurements taken after blocking. (注意: 尺寸的取得是在固定之後)
MATERIALS (材料)
Yarns (線材)
(略)
Recommended needle size (建議針號)
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 US #8/5mm circular needle, 32 inches or longer
輪針, 美規, #8 / 5mm, 32 吋 (81.28cm) 或更長
1 US #10/6mm circular needle, 32 inches or longer (used for casting on only)
輪針, 美規, #10 / 6mm, 32 吋 (81.28cm) 或更長 (只用於起針)
GAUGE (標準尺規)
15 sts/ 22rows = 4" in stockinette st using smaller needle, AFTER BLOCKING
15 針 / 22 列 = 用較小的針號織 4 吋, 取固定後的尺寸
PATTERN NOTES
依照織圖織
* NUPP (有人叫他泡泡針, 有人叫他球針)
Each nupp is formed over 2 rows.
On RS row: Into same st, [k1, yo] 3 times, k1. 1 st increased to 7 sts.
On WS row: P 7 sts together. 7 sts decreased to 1 st.
作法: http://www.knittingdaily.com/blogs/daily/archive/2008/11/10/lace-knitting-video-tip-from-nancy-bush.aspx
* S2KP (3 針併一針, 圖示: /|\ 長這樣的那種)
Slip next 2 sts together, knitwise, as if to work a k2tog. Knit next st, then pass both slipped sts together over st just knit. This forms a centered double decrease.
在 ravelry 的作品內, 有人在下方將圖以文字呈現...(我發現我現在背這個比看圖輕鬆)
Row-by-row directions:DIRECTIONS 指引
(thank you, mwhite)
Nupp: Very loosely k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1 all into the same stitch.
Row 1: Slip1, k2tog, k4, yo, k1, +{yo, k4, s2kp, k4, yo, k1} +rep to last 7 sts, yo, k4, ssk, k1. (363 sts)
Rows 2, 4, 6 & 8: Slip 1, purl to end of row.
Row 3: Slip1, k2tog, k3, yo, k2, +{k1, yo, k3, s2kp, k3, yo, k2} +rep to last 7 sts, k1, yo, k3, ssk, k1.
Row 5: Slip1, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, +{yo, ssk, yo, k2, s2kp, k2, yo, k2tog, yo, k1} +rep to last 7 sts, yo, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, k1.
Row 7: Slip1, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, yo, k2, +{k1, yo, ssk, yo, k1, s2kp, k1, yo, k2tog, yo, k2} +rep to last 7 sts, k1, yo, ssk, yo, k1, ssk, k1.
Row 9: Slip1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, k2, Nupp, +{k2, yo, ssk, yo, s2kp, yo, k2tog, yo, k2, Nupp} +rep to last 7 sts, k2, yo, ssk, yo, ssk, k1.
Row 10: Slip1, p6, +{p7tog, p11} +rep to last 14 sts, p7tog, p7.
Row 11: Slip 1, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, Nupp, k1, +{Nupp, k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, Nupp, k1} +rep to last 7 sts, Nupp, k2, yo, ssk, k2.
Row 12: Slip1, p5, p7tog, +{p1, p7tog, p9, p7tog} +rep to last 14 sts, p1, p7tog, p6.
Row 13: Slip1, k2tog, yo, k2, Nupp, k2, +{k1, Nupp, k2, yo, s2kp, yo, k2, Nupp, k2} +rep to last 7 sts, k1, Nupp, k2, yo, ssk, k1.
Row 14: Slip1, p4, p7tog, p1, +{p2, p7tog, p7, p7tog, p1} +rep to last 14 sts, p2, p7tog, p5.
Row 15: Slip1, k2tog, k5, +{k4, s2kp, k5} +rep to last 7 sts, k4, ssk, k1. (303 sts)
Row 16: Slip 1, purl to end of row.
Row 17: Slip1, k2tog, k4, +{k3, s2kp, k4} +rep to last 6 sts, k3, ssk, k1. (243 sts)
Row 18: Slip 1, purl to end of row.
Proceed to short row instructions.
May 29, 2010: The mistake in the lace chart is now corrected.
May 28, 2010: Please note - there is an error in Row 13 of the lace chart, it is missing two yarn overs. The chart should read …nupp, k2, yo, cdd, yo, k2, nupp… (instead of …nupp, k3, cdd, k3, nupp…)
後來有修正 -- 第 13 排少 2 個掛針 (yo). 圖應該是 球針, 2 下針, 掛針, 3 針併 1 針, 掛針, 2 下針, 球針 (取代 ... 球針, 3 下針, 3 針併 1 針, 3 下針, 球針)
Using larger needle, loosely CO 363 sts. Note that larger needle is used only for casting on, to ensure a loose CO edge.
用較大號的針, 鬆散起針 363 針. 注意較大針號的針只用於起針, 確保有較鬆散的邊緣.
Using smaller needle, work Rows 1-18 of Lace Chart; outlined pattern repeat will be worked 29 times in each row.
用較小的輪針開始編織 1-18 列的花樣編織; 每一列紅色輪廓內的圖樣重複 29 次.
(花樣編織 12 * 重複次數 29 = 348 針, 加上前 8 後 7, 總針數 363 針)
When all rows of chart are complete, 243 sts remain.
圖樣內所有列完成, 剩餘 243 針.
到此, 完成的模樣就是最下方的圖示裡外面花樣編的部份.
Short Rows: (不懂該怎麼翻這兩個字, 短列? 反正這一部分就市指的就是那個半圓形的區塊)
Note: In directions that follow, “turning point” refers to point at which previous short row was turned.
Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1, k125. Turn work.
第一列 [正面]: 滑針 1, 下針 125, 換面
Row 2 [WS]: P9. Turn work.
第二列 [反面]: 上針 9, 換面
Row 3 [RS]: K8, ssk, k3. Turn work.
第三列 [正面]: 下針 8, 入 (2 針併 1 針), 下針, 換面
Row 4 [WS]: P11, p2tog, p3. Turn work.
第四列 [反面]: 上針 11, 2 針併 1 針上針, 上針 3, 換面
Row 5 [RS]: K to 1 st before last turning point, ssk, k3. Turn work.
第五列 [正面]: 下針到上一個翻面點的第一針, 入 (2 針併 1 針), 下針 3, 換面
Row 6 [WS]: P to 1 st before last turning point, p2tog, p3. Turn work.
第六列 [反面]: 上針到上一個翻面點的第一針, 2 針併 1 針上針, 上針 3, 換面
Repeat Rows 5-6 27 times more. 185 sts; 1 st remains unworked at each edge.
重複 5-6 的步驟 27 次. 共 185 針, 邊緣的第一針保留不編 (滑針)
Next Row [RS]: K to last 2 sts, k2tog.
接下來的一列 [正面]: 下針到最後兩針, 人 (2 針併 1 針)
BO Row [WS]: [P2tog, sl st from right needle back to left needle] until all sts have been bound off.
收針 [反面]: [2 針併 1 針上針, 自右針滑針一針回左針] 重複以上直到全部都收完.
* [note]: 這個部份我卡了很久, 怎麼看就是無法理解 "short rows" 要表達的意思, 是某天, 突然想起某處 (忘了) 看到的閱讀織圖的方法, 當中寫...大部分織圖都是從下到上, 從右到左, 於是才明白我到底卡在哪裡...----
原因在於, 雖然起針是平的一直線, 但在蕾絲花樣結束後, 整個蕾絲部份會變成圓弧狀, 那中間那塊全是平針, 怎麼織?
所以 short rows 的第一列...125 針的下針, 一路從邊邊回到半圓形的底端 (剩餘針數 243 除以 2), 轉到背面, 上針 9 針, 換面, 就這樣一路向上, 半圓形的模樣會是一整片很平坦, 很直的辮子樣.
不明白我說什麼的可以看一下圖, 我想連我這個靠自修學編織的人都能悟懂, 有經驗的人應該都不會感到有難度的.
看懂了, 接下來就是實作, 有什麼錯誤的, 到時候再修正.
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